Efie Nkomo: Oguaa, Ghana’s ‘abrofosem’ capital

I decided to visit Cape Coast the other day. It was my first visit ever into the municipality, despite having driven through it several times. Of course, there are a number of popular perceptions swimming around Cape Coasters, popular among which is their reputedly sweet palate. Cape Coasters are also said to be passionately in love with weddings, christenings, picnics and the Methodist Church.

Once the capital of the Gold Coast, Cape Coast prides itself as the cradle of modern Ghana. After all, it was in the Cape Coast-Elmina area that the Europeans made their first contact with what was to be the Gold Coast. Doubtless this relationship reflected in later developments: the 'brofolisation' of native Fante names (Yawson, Quayson, etc), the plethora of good quality secondary schools in the area, and the imported habit of enjoying afternoon tea with buttered scones. It also led to the springing up of a new breed of Gold Coaster- the half-caste, or mulatto children, who enjoyed a unique identity and status.

I arrived in Oguaa early in the morning from Accra, determined to probe into this fascinating place and see the places I had only heard of. After a brief visit to the Kakum National Park, I was ready for Oguaa proper.

My first stop was Cape Coast Castle, a grim reminder of the horrendous legacy of slavery which has haunted the black race till today. I found it very remarkable that this whitewashed edifice represented the height of the domination by one race over another, the seat of power of powerful governors like Sir Charles McCarthy and Captain George McLean of bygone times. A quick visit later to the nearby Elmina Castle was equally heart-rending. I explored the dungeons where thousands of our forefathers were kept in dehumanising conditions prior to being packed and exported like 'keta schoolboys' to the so-called New World. What I found most striking was that right in the middle of the courtyard of Elmina Castle, close to the male slave dungeon, is a church. I wondered how the slave masters could possibly worship in that church whilst their fellow human beings languished in stench and misery right under their noses simply for being black. When I stood at the narrow 'Door of No Return' and gazed out into the shimmering ocean, at least I had the luxury of being able to turn back onto solid Ghanaian land.

By the time I was through with the two castles, it was late in the afternoon, and I was hungry. Of course, for lunch I could not be in a better place than Cape Coast, the citadel of 'abrofo' cuisine in the whole wide Ghana. I was spoilt for choice. I finally settled on a restaurant by the seafront on the edge of Victoria Park. Given its glorious-sounding name, I half-expected the park to be a horticultural oasis of tranquil greenery and shrubbery. Instead, what I saw was a grassless pitch with the weather-beaten bust of Queen Victoria gracing it, a stark reminder of the influence of the English on Cape Coast.

When the menu was presented to me, I realised that well and truly, I was in Fanteland. The roll-call was interesting: avocado and prawn salad, lamb tagine with minted potatoes, yam croquettes with coleslaw-these were some of the mouth-watering delicacies on the menu. But I decided to play it safe. I opted instead for fried yam and fish gravy, and enjoyed it whilst I watched the waves break gently on the shore. Of course, you cannot eat anywhere in Cape Coast and not have dessert, so I ordered some pancake 'to wipe my mouth', before washing it all down with a bottle of chilled Club beer. Cape Coast is indeed a gastronomic paradise.

My belly full, I decided to sample the rest of Cape Coast. The evening air was also pervaded by a multiplicity of excellent aromas as the preparation of dinner got underway, no doubt with a lot of frying and grilling and roasting occurring in the process.

I had heard somewhere about Cape Coast's London Bridge, so I decided to go pay a visit. Dear reader, I was not necessarily expecting a feat of unrivalled engineering skill, but I was thrown completely aback by what I saw when I arrived. I rubbed my eyes. Was this it? Maybe I had lost my way. But there it was, with the words 'Welcome to London Bridge' boldly emblazoned on either side, the Ghanaian and British flags entwined. Yes, Cape Coast London Bridge, dear reader, is in essence, a culvert. What an anti-climax.

After a few moments, my utter surprise gave way to wry amusement as I wondered how such an unremarkable feature came to gain such wide currency, to the extent that it features even in some tourist guides to Ghana.

Later in the evening, I sat at the Blue Cheese, a bar overlooking the statue of the Oguaa Crab, from which I suppose Kotokoraba Market derives its name. As I enjoyed gospel music by Daughters of Glorious Jesus, I observed Cape Coasters going about their business, frying their Fante even as they fried their doughnuts. I had enjoyed Oguaa, its intricacies, the easy-going lifestyle, the quaint, charming, old, creaky buildings that spoke volumes and reminded one of the influences of European culture and architecture. I believe one cannot understand Ghanaian history in its full context without first seeking to appreciate and understand Oguaa. Email of author: [email protected]