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Sun, 30 Aug 2009 Feature Article

In Defence Of Konkonte By Cameron Duodu

The former Ghanaian Minister of Information, Mr Asamoah BoatengThe former Ghanaian Minister of Information, Mr Asamoah Boateng

The former Ghanaian Minister of Information, Mr Asamoah Boateng, will go down in history as 'the Ghanaian Marie Antoinette.'

He is reported to have said that people who claimed to be hungry in Ghana should 'eat konkonte/ to assuage their hunger.

Like Marie Antoinette (Queen of the French King, Louis The Sixteenth) who is alleged to have said: “Let them eat cake”, when it was reported to her that the peasants of France were starving because they had “no bread” to eat, Asamoah Boateng (“Asabee”) is said to have suggested konkonte for the hungry people, in a snobbish reaction to complaints that some of his constituents could not afford to eat the fufu that is their normal plate of choice..

Now, if he did say such a thing, then Asabee is a very poor politician. In a democracy, where one's political opponents are always waiting for one to commit a verbal indiscretion so that they can use it to steal votes from one, to utter a line like that -- if he did -- was most unwise. You see, konkonte is made from cassava, and in the Akan areas of Ghana, where Asabee's constituency is situated, cassava comes a poor fourth, after plantain, yam and cocoyam, by way of preferred foodstuffs. That aside, Asabee should have known that once, when the leader of the Progress Party, Dr Kofi Busia (Prime minister of Ghana from 1969 to 1972) made a remark lamenting the fact that some people in Ghana's rural areas were forced to drink water that was “worse than the water in his toilet“, his political opponents never allowed him to live down that remark. Yet it was literally true, in that it was treated water that went into his toilet, whereas the water many villagers used -- and continue to use to this day -- is untreated.

Indeed, Marie Antoinette too, probably, did not make the “Let them eat cake” remark that has been widely attributed to her in history books. Never mind -- her political opponents were so intent on destroying her that they used that statement to incite hatred against her, when the French revolution broke out in 1789. Eventually, she was convicted of treason and executed by guillotine in 1793 -- nine months after her husband had been dispatched in a similar manner.

There are people in Asabee's constituency, of course, who, given half a chance, would string him up on the nearest tree, without sweat. People are touchy about the food they eat, you see, and it doesn't matter that few people can stand up and say, hand on heart, “I was present when Asabee said it.“.

That's why I am not going to waste time to delve deeply into whether Asabee said it or not. It would be a useless exercise, for people will believe what they like. Marie Antoinette, for instance, is believed by a lot of historians not to have actually said, “Let them eat cake.”

One popular rendition by her defenders is that she said, “Let them eat the remnants that gets caked up inside the ovens when bread is baked.” In the France of those days, these remnants used to be put out by bakers for beggars and vagrants to come and pick up and devour. So it would make sense for Marie Antoinette to have said that. But people wanted to accuse her of callousness and insensitivity by all means. So they made her say, “Let them eat cake” And it has gone down into history.

Asabee's troubles with the BNI alone should make him go into history. But that's not enough for his detractors. So do you know what they're saying now? They're claiming that when he was detained at the BNI for interrogation, he was offered konkonte to eat! And do you know what? He refused to eat it. Yeah -- he had suggested that his constituents should eat konkonte, but when the same thing was offered to him, he wouldn't eat it.

Now, I have no doubt that this is an apocryphal story. The BNI is not exactly fond of telling the public about how it treats its detainees. And furthermore, the story has, as far as I know, not been reported anywhere apart from a totally irresponsible website that publishes almost anything anyone sends to it about Ghana, whether it's true or not. I swear, the suggestions made on that website about the sort of things Asabee should have ben given to eat by the BNI would make you sick.

Apart from the disgusting sadism exhibited in the comments on the website, there is a lamentable lack of concern shown there about the legality or otherwise of Asabee's detention, and also about the way and manner the BNI and other investigative agencies should behave towards the Ghanaian citizenry, under constitutional, civilian rule. In a country that has endured military rule so often, it is extremely important that the difference between constitutional rule and military rule should be absolutely and clearly marked, and it is tragic -- no less -- that the BNI should be acting as if we were still under military rule. Especially, as our President is a law professor, and the director of the BNI is, I am told, a soldier who has taken the trouble to qualify fully as a lawyer. What is the use of his having taken time to study the law, if he had no intention of applying it in practice when he got the chance?

Anyway, a discussion of the rule of law is not the main purpose of this article. I am primarily interested in the konkonte issue. And ere is the secret: when I was a kid, I loved to steal away from home and go to the market to buy konkonte and eat it there! A woman called Maame Amma sold konkonte in the market, and I used to hunt around for discarded cutlasses and other ironmongery, which I sold to the local blacksmith for a penny, twopence or three pence. I would then smuggle myself to go and blow almost all of the money on konkonte.

The konkonte made by that woman was of such a quality as is difficult to describe. It was very smooth, and it was brownish-yellow in colour (not the dark grey, getting to black, that you sometimes see.) It was beautiful when it came out of her big pot and she cut it into smallish portions, each of which cost one penny. One penny's worth was enough to give me a nice breakfast upon which I could go to stand tall and face the day's schooling.

The woman used to make palm-nut soup to go with the konkonte. Occasionally, she made groundnut soup. One of the ingredients she used to give her soups its peculiarly lovely taste was the tail of a cow, which had been broiled over a coal-fire, and left to 'cure' for a day or two. As we used to say, it sweeted bad! Sometimes, too, she used the entrails of the cow. And to balance the taste of the soup, she put in smoked herrings. After one had gorged oneself with her soup, one needed to wash one's hands well with soap, otherwise one's teacher would ask questions when one handed in one's exercise book. Some of the really bad boys among us gave her soups a special name: Ebon, nso yedi. (which is to say, 'it pongs but we savour it.')

My mother never made konkonte at home, though she knew how to make it. That was its attraction --something one couldn't get at home. Other 'non-domesticated' stuff that we liked were fula, kafa and koose. Our parents frowned on them in much the same way that modern parents are always going on about how their kids prefer 'fast foods' like Macdonalds and Kentucky Frieds to home-cooked food.

Our fast foods had this distinction, though: they were healthy. Our foods were so non-fatty that when I look Back upon the entire ten-years I spent in junior school, I can't say I remember even one single child who showed any inclination towards embarking on the slippery slope that constitutes the road to obesity.

And, course, we would refute any suggestion that konkonte is such a sub-standard meal that if it is recommenced that one should eat it, then the person making the suggestion had behaved like a snobbish person. To any such person, all I for one would say is, “Charlie, you don't know anything, do you? Konkonte is 'low-cost'? Olee!”

 

Cameron Duodu
Cameron Duodu, © 2009

Martin Cameron Duodu is a United Kingdom-based Ghanaian novelist, journalist, editor and broadcaster. After publishing a novel, The Gab Boys, in 1967, Duodu went on to a career as a journalist and editorialist.. More Martin Cameron Duodu (born 24 May 1937) is a United Kingdom-based Ghanaian novelist, journalist, editor and broadcaster. After publishing a novel, The Gab Boys, in 1967, Duodu went on to a career as a journalist and editorialist.

Education
Duodu was born in Asiakwa in eastern Ghana and educated at Kyebi Government Senior School and the Rapid Results College, London , through which he took his O-Level and A-Level examinations by correspondence course . He began writing while still at school, the first story he ever wrote ("Tough Guy In Town") being broadcast on the radio programme The Singing Net and subsequently included in Voices of Ghana , a 1958 anthology edited by Henry Swanzy that was "the first Ghanaian literary anthology of poems, stories, plays and essays".

Early career
Duodu was a student teacher in 1954, and worked on a general magazine called New Nation in Ghana, before going on to become a radio journalist for the Ghana Broadcasting Corporation from 1956 to 1960, becoming editor of radio news <8> (moonlighting by contributing short stories and poetry to The Singing Net and plays to the programme Ghana Theatre). <9> From 1960 to 1965 he was editor of the Ghana edition of the South African magazine Drum , <10> and in 1970 edited the Daily Graphic , <3> the biggest-selling newspaper in Ghana.< citation needed >

The Gab Boys (1967) and creative writing
In 1967, Duodu's novel The Gab Boys was published in London by André Deutsch . The "gab boys" of the title – so called because of their gabardine trousers – are the sharply dressed youths who hang about the village and are considered delinquent by their elders. The novel is the story of the adventures of one of them, who runs away from village life, eventually finding a new life in the Ghana capital of Accra . According to one recent critic, "Duodu simultaneously represents two currents in West African literature of the time, on the one hand the exploration of cultural conflict and political corruption in post-colonial African society associated with novelists and playwrights such as Chinua Achebe and Ama Ata Aidoo , and on the other hand the optimistic affirmation of African cultural strengths found in poets of the time such as David Diop and Frank Kobina Parkes . These themes come together in a very compassionate discussion of the way that individual people, rich and poor, are pushed to compromise themselves as they try to navigate a near-chaotic transitional society."

In June 2010 Duodu was a participant in the symposium Empire and Me: Personal Recollections of Imperialism in Reality and Imagination, held at Cumberland Lodge , alongside other speakers who included Diran Adebayo , Jake Arnott , Margaret Busby , Meira Chand , Michelle de Kretser , Nuruddin Farah , Jack Mapanje , Susheila Nasta , Jacob Ross , Marina Warner , and others.

Duodu also writes plays and poetry. His work was included in the anthology Messages: Poems from Ghana ( Heinemann Educational Books , 1970).

Other activities and journalism
Having worked as a correspondent for various publications in the decades since the 1960s, including The Observer , The Financial Times , The Sunday Times , United Press International , Reuters , De Volkskrant ( Amsterdam ), and The Economist , Duodu has been based in Britain as a freelance journalist since the 1980s. He has had stints with the magazines South and Index on Censorship , and has written regularly for outlets such as The Independent and The Guardian .

He is the author of the blog "Under the Neem Tree" in New African magazine (London), and has also published regular columns in The Mail and Guardian ( Johannesburg ) and City Press (Johannesburg), as well as writing a weekly column for the Ghanaian Times (Accra) for many years.< citation needed >

Duodu has appeared frequently as a contributor on BBC World TV and BBC World Service radio news programmes discussing African politics, economy and culture.

He contributed to the 2014 volume Essays in Honour of Wole Soyinka at 80, edited by Ivor Agyeman-Duah and Ogochukwu Promise.
Column: Cameron Duodu

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